India Part 4

Dec 29 continued We had a delightful Indian dinner at the buffet in Pepper where we have breakfast. A wonderful selection of desserts including tiramisu in a cup. I managed to complete the videos of all the photos taken so far – a couple of thousand excellent pictures with the new camera! The Delhi rape has been thundering in the papers and on all the TV channels and now sadly the victim has died. It seems that the courts here are very slow and short of judges who do not convict. There is evidence of police corruption and inaction. Liz dropped off on the bed but I stayed awake and eventually woke at 2 a.m. to hear fireworks going off in Kochi until 3 a.m. presumably the end of a big celebration. Woke at 6 a.m. and did a couple more videos after my usual reading. I have done all the Heythrop work I brought with me. We need to check the weight allowance on Etihad airlines but I think by putting all the books and electrical plugs in the hand luggage we should manage.

Dec 30 Sunday Holy Family 9.30 a.m. Chandran took us to Little Flower church Erukalam which is Syro-Malabar and huge. It is in communion with Rome but heavily influenced by the Orthodox. The Mass was In English and we could follow it well although there were numerous prayers led by priest, deacons and cantor on microphone accompanied by the inevitable loud keyboard with backing. Sadly the people do not sing and the priest who comes from outlying areas to celebrate complained about it! He like the bishop in Udaipur has a tendency to yell into the mike. Interestingly the reading was for Epiphany and the first reading was about Ishmael! We were joined by Anthony Chako the local travel agent who had met us at the airport. His daughters did the 2 readings and sing in the choir. His wife teaches English and she invited is to their home. Xavier appeared at the end of Mass – he is clearly delighted that we have come. He is going on a pilgrimage around local monasteries and seminaries before his ordination. Anthony took us to the Little Flower church where the ordination will be celebrated – this is a large blue building and everything is in Malayam. A wedding was in progress and the church and hall will be hot and sticky! Chandra then drove is to Chennamangalam. We did find two churches said to have been founded by St Thomas – one Syro-Jacobite the other much larger and older where a wedding was on and that is the pilgrimage centre. Once again taste was not in it. Sadly the old synagogue was firmly locked and we could not find a keyholder so that was a disappointment. Came back for a rest on the chaise longue and short swim, Jacuzzi, steam bath and experience shower Tim as chatty as always! Liz ended up having a pedicure. I went for the free tea outside and asked about the lost battery. Amazingly my wooden cross fell out of my trouser pocket this morning! Glad to have it back. Bradley Wiggins is to be knighted – wonder who else?

A lovely meal at the Rice Boat which has the prow and body of a boat built into the room! Beautiful food and a very pleasant waiter who suggested we try the local speciality – so we had snapper cooked in a palm leaf. You can choose your fish and see the kitchen. This was the most expensive meal but well worth it.

Dec 31 A last Jacuzzi, steam bath and experience shower with the delightful Tim to chat to. Had breakfast and paid the bill which turned out to be less than expected! £168 for 4 superb meals and a pedicure is not too bad. Liz was presented with a terra cotta necklace and a box of spices. We left at 10 a.m. and passed a number of churches and Hindu temples on the route to Kumarakom. When we arrived at Backwater Ripples the room was not ready until 1 p.m. so we both had a full body massage and herbal steam bath in the Ayurveda style using warmed oils. This is most relaxing. It is interesting that they do not believe in getting the head hot in the steam bath. I found at Vivanta that I could only stay in the steam for a few minutes as my face got hot. Our room is lovely with a balcony and a view over the lake. At 3 we went to the bird sanctuary and had a walk in which we never reached the lake and saw no birds but we did hear them! There were butterflies. A better time to have gone would have been evening or early morning. We returned to the hotel for a swim in the infinity pool which is very near our room and then on the sunset cruise on the lake where we met some Americans and people from Durban and Vancouver. At 7.15 p.m. a bottle of Indian red wine and a basket of spices was delivered to our room and there was a hunt for Liz’s necklaces – I had tried to get what we needed for this one night stop into one bag but did not succeed! There was a procession to the large banquet hall led by brilliant drummers and dancers. When you arrive at the hotel you are greeted by a trumpet and drum and escorted by them to your room. The New Year’s gala dinner was enlivened by singers, band and excellent dance troupes and various games. We attempted unsuccessfully to dance on a newspaper! I found it hard to keep awake despite the very loud music which had an insistent Bollywood beat. There were a couple of congas. Neither of us were terribly hungry despite a lavish spread! At midnight the beat became even louder (quite of few took refuge outside but being in a suit and tie it was best to say in the air conditioned hall!) The 2013 lights came on and we all went to the lakeside to greet each other and see the fireworks accompanied by the drummers. A very different New year.