India part 3
Christmas Day continued. Had a lovely swim and a rest. Went
to see the spotted deer, boars, peacocks and eagles at the small game park at
the hunting lodge where the guide explained about the wall paintings. A lovely
spot as the sun was going down. We were able to speak to Dennis, Bruce, Grainne
and Sophia on Skype but alas could not get Louise Tom and Ciarán in Ireland.
Still we sent texts and later we saw the short video of Ciarán saying Happy
Christmas. To the free dinner at Ambrai
which is on the lakeside opposite the floodlit palace - a lovely location and excellent food. We had
lamb and chicken done in local style and gulak taman, round sweets. Also nice
mocktails. Watched The Nutcracker on TV from Seattle 1983. Dropped off and woke
at 1 and 7.
St Stephen’s Day Good breakfast and a box of goodies for
later. Our guide Lokmani was excellent and never mentioned shops once. In fact
it was a delight not to be harassed by hawkers at all! What a lovely place
Udaipur is! We toured the Hindu temple which is the finest we have seen with
marble sculptures from 16th century. Then a tour of the City palace
with many fine decorations and miniature paintings. Some parts were quite
crowded but the guide gave us time to look properly. Then we went to lovely
gardens of the Maids of honour with fountains and saw the lake for the first
time by daylight. Had a lovely swim and then by golf buggy to the next door
hotel Udaivailas which is luxurious. Rooms have their own pool facing the City
palace! Lovely decorated rooms. Came back to our hotel for tea and cakes and
apple. 4.15 off to the lake for the magical cruise with the guide on our
exclusive boat to Jagmandir island – a lovely view as the sun went down. What a
place! To Silk Palace and Liz got lovely outfit which she wore for the evening
plus 2 nice tops. Then to Rajah lakeside restaurant for delicious lamb and
mushroom with spinach and gulak.
Dec 27th Woke in the night as had to be up at
4.30 a.m. to go to airport at 5.15 a.m. 7.15 flight to Mumbai. The local travel
agent in Udaipur joined us which was good as we were 1 kilo over in weight but
that was not a problem! We had a 4 hour wait at Mumbai airport but were able to
go outside (hot and sticky) so went to coffee lounge and had a very nice
omelette. Nothing much to do. Both flights were Jet holidays planes the second
one 90 minutes to Kochi on a Boeing. Lots of rivers as we came down the coast.
On arrival at Kochi collected luggage and we were met by the local travel agent
Anthony who goes to Little Flower church. He was interested in the reason for
visiting Kurisamala. Our driver is Chandra. The approach to the hotel Vivanta
Malabar by Taj is unimpressive – basically the port buildings at the end of
Willington Island and it was quickly clear that we would have to eat at the 4
expensive restaurants at the hotel. We rang Xavier and found out that he was
going to an ordination but it was agreed that we would meet him and Anthony at
Little Flower church on Sunday morning. It was agreed that we could have the driver
to take us to the ordination and First Mass and we established the correct
Little Flower church as there are two! Our room is a superior charm one with
views over the channel between us and Fort Kochi – very comfortable. Once again
we have a blind between bathroom and room so you can watch TV in the bath. We
ate at Deep Point outside under large Christmas stars. This was an excellent
buffet – lovely soup, fish platter, beef platter and desserts – far too much! A
very good singer and keyboard and told them so.
Fell asleep and woke at 1 a.m. and 6 a.m. The only concerns
are harbour noises and occasional unpleasant smells from the water!
Friday 28 Dec Holy Innocents. Went to desk to ask about
ferries. An excellent breakfast. Walked to ferry (10 minutes or more) and just
caught it. Walked to Santa Cruz cathedral which is very garish. The hotel map
was rubbish and the Lonely planet one much better. Did not take tuk tuk! Then
to St Francis church which is large but unexciting. Vasco da Gama was buried
there for a while. Decided to skip the museum because of the sticky heat (the
summer must be unbearable) and walked along to see the Chinese fishing nets and
once again just caught the ferry back Biennale on but didn’t go into any of the
venues. Ginesh rang while we were resting. Lovely swimming pool and excellent
Jacuzzi, steam bath and experience shower (blue mist, tropical and Scottish)
attended by Tim. At 4.30 we met Ginesh in the foyer and walked round the hotel
and gardens and had a good chat. He was interesting on his various jobs and the
process of Hindu arranged marriage involving horoscopes and family vetting and
possible dowry. At 5.45 we went on the free harbour cruise to see the sunset
over the Chinese nets. Ginesh had kindly brought us a pineapple which the
kitchen prepared for us with lime and banana leaf so we had that for dessert
after our dinner. Every evening we get chocolates and an orchid and details of
the next day’s activities. There was a huge garden celebration we think for an
Islamic betrothal where the couple meet for the first time at the ceremony! 300
family only. Watched Arabic male dance troupe – they came close to doing the
Egyptian sand dance at one point! We ate at the Pavilion – Chinese and Thai
food and the chef came to check we were happy. I had sweet corn and crabmeat
soup and delicious fish with ginger and spring onions and Liz prawns.
Fell asleep reading and woke at 1 a.m. and 4 a.m. and 6 a.m.
Liz sleeps much better than I do!
Saturday Dec 29 St Thomas Becket A good breakfast and Chandran arrived at 8
a.m. A 3 and a half hour drive with a coffee stop at Ripples restaurant. We
reached Kurisamala Ashram in time for midday prayer with the monks who are
Syro-Malabar church. We were able to examine a prayer of the Church in Asia edited
by Bede Griffiths and there were nuns at the prayer and other visitors. A
simple chapel with a veil in front of the altar which is drawn back for the
prayers. Lovely icons. In the parlour hall were a locked book stall and
pictures of monks with Popes and of course Bede Griffiths. Went to look at the
garden and the cow sheds and a family asked for a photo with us! Then to the
pilgrimage centre which had a Stations of the Cross going up the mountain.
Climbed the steps to St Thomas statue and met a pastor and his catechism class
of ladies from Kochi. Wonderful views of the mountains on the way up and at the
top – well worth the long drive. We were back at 4.40 after a stop while
Chandra had lunch at Ripples restaurant and we had tea – we had boxed lunch from
breakfast. Went to the free tea with banana fritters and cakes outside and then
a short swim, jacuzzi steam bath and experience shower. Tim is a 19 year old
trainee who wants to do management. Liz has lost her 3rd camera
battery. I lost my wooden cross in Udaipur.
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