Venice
Venice Fr Ken moved the Feast one day so we could hear the
prayers for St Mark’s day. This was the last Mass of the pilgrimage to Emmaus
and it has been memorable especially in empowering us to do more. We arrived in
Venice with a fabulous view of the Grand canal from the Giudecca. After lunch
there were long queues trying to get a vaporetto ticket and a people mover
ticket – only one machine which only took change. We got a weekly ticket at
Piazzale Roma and were off to St Mark’s visiting the Ducal palace splendid but
lots of steps and then the Museo Correr.
We attended first vespers for St Mark’s day at St Mark’s – the organ and choir
were loud and lots of doorknockers. Shocked to see collection taken during the
Magnificat and the same man was rude afterwards about people not paying! Got the No 2 and people mover back to the
ship for the last night. Could not find the lady who wanted the details of
recent reading – had seen her at St Mark’s! Adagio came adrift once. Woke at 4
a.m. but did not get up for 6 a.m. ANZAC service – lots of Aussies on
board.
We left the ship at 9 a.m. and got people mover with no
problems having bought tickets at the shop. Daniela Benfante met us and we went
on the smaller vaporetto to Orto. The house is lovely set in an area with
gardens and overlooking the canal. We visited Carlo Goldoni’s house, the
magnificent Frari church with superb Bellini and Titian and tomb of Monteverdi
then Ca’Razzonico which has a fine 18th century collection – we are
getting full use of the museums pass. At Santa Maria della Salute listened to
organ vespers. Back to get some shopping and then out to dinner at Canaletto –
excellent gnocchi, fish and tiramisu – bit pricey but good.
Sunday I could not get the window shutters closed in the
dark so wore my eye shade and in fact woke around 9 a.m. We had breakfast
watching an ordination by the Pope from St Peter’s and set for Ca d’Oro stop –
most churches we passed were closed – we did see one where Mass was to be at
11.30. The No. 1 took us across the Grand canal to St Stae (also closed) so we
made our way to Santa Croce and arrived in time for Mass at 11 at St Girolamo.
This was a lively affair with an engaging priest and the first communion
candidates receiving their white garments, blessed with holy water and taking
candles to the Madonna. The folk group did well and we were able to sing along
with the book to the Italian songs which were very singable and catchy. There
is a fine Lotto altar picture. We shopped in the supermarket and visited the
Ca’ Mocenigo which had fine rooms and attractive modern textiles also a
fascinating perfume making section. We tried the Osteria Mocenigo but they said
they were complete but to our delight he called after us in the street and we
got a table. For 13 euro we had an excellent main course (I had pork) white
wine and coffee and then we had delicious ice cream at Santa Stae and visited
Ca’ Pesaro which has modern art and oriental art – found the musical instruments!
Our last gallery of the day was the Accademia with its sublime Bellinis,
Giorgione, Lotto portrait of a young man, Titians, Tintorettos and Veronese. We
are staying near Tintoretto’s house. Bought cake for dinner and sketched from
our lounge window. Worked out how to close shutters!
Monday and last day of the trip and the rain came down after
so much glorious sunshine. We got up late and headed for our local church
Madonna dell’ Orto Gothic with lovely Tintoretto pictures and a very calm feel.
From Orto we took the vaporetto to Fondamente Nuovo and then the 12 to
Torcello. What a delight Torcello is? Greenery, quiet, birds singing and a
superb Byzantine cathedral with stunning mosaics and floors. St Fosca next door
is also lovely and there was Gregorian chant playing too! Took two vaporetti to
get to St Mark’s and visited the second floor of the Correr where there are
lovely Bellinis and Corregios and Lottos. Went to Peggy Guggenheim but the
queues were long and the price has gone up. As it is a small place decided it
would be too crowded and walked via Accademia bridge to the free Music museum
which has lovely instruments. Did some shopping and finally got on the internet
at a restaurant where we had coffee and then back for dinner of pasta and local
cakes. Did some sketches and self portraits from life in the full length
mirror. Hard to do.
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