India!
Sunday 16th Dec packed and picked up Dennis and
his presents. Arrived at Acton – both boys had been asleep. Had an excellent
lunch at The Rocket. Bruce produced cards from which we were supposed to read
words in turn to make up the message and clever boxes inside each other with
sweets – Ciaran loved that. Back to the house in the rain for presents. C and S
had big piles of course and the real highlight was the train turntable which
went up and down! Watched Sports personality of the year and it was obvious
Bradley Wiggins would win despite a strong field including 3 paralympians.
Slept reasonably and taxi arrived early so we were at Heathrow early.
Monday 17th a good flight to Abu Dhabi on Etihad.
I watched 2 films Cheerful weather for the wedding and Ruby Sparks. Also
listened to Elgar while dozing. Had a wait for plane to Delhi but it left on
time. I watched an interesting Indian film called “Beautiful” which was set in
Kerala. Having left London at 9.30 a.m. we reached Delhi at 11 p.m. local time
3 a.m. Car and rep there to meet us and to Claridges – very nice room and we
got all out vouchers.
Tuesday 18th Slept from 5 to around 9 and breakfast although
not very hungry. Rested and swam in pool which was cold to start with.
2 p.m. tour with guide. To Qutub Minar – the traffic is
horrendous and some of the driving! A most impressive tower and 2000 year old
iron column. Beautiful carvings. Stopped to see Bahai Temple from outside
- a fine building. Then we ended up at
an expensive shop where we refused to buy carpets, jewellery and clothes! I
wish we had done something more useful with the limited time. Ended at the
lovely Humayan’s Tomb and the sunset. So 3 of the things on the list we did not
see!
7 p.m. by car to Laseez
affaire restaurant where we had delicious mutton birhani and vegetable
curry, Chocolate brownie but neither if us ate the accompanying ice cream.
Lovely flavours. The hotel is very grand but the staff are friendly and
helpful.
Wednesday 19th Good breakfast and left at 9 a.m.
still have not found out the guide’s name! Despite his comments I stuck to the
tip recommended by Trailfinders! The Red Fort most impressive and loved the lapis
lazuli flowers inlaid in marble in the Emperor’s Diwan-I-Khas. We then took a
rickshaw to the Digambara Jain temple 16th century with fine murals
(interesting that figures are naked) and we saw various rituals taking place
accompanied by bell ringing. We glimpsed the silver interior of the Hindu temple next door but did not enter due
to a wedding anniversary festival, Back on the rickshaw to the biggest mosque
in India which can take 35,000 – the Jama Masjid. Once again the guide left us
to walk around and it was interesting that the guard made some young men move
away from us. We paid for photography and a gown for Liz! By car to Raj Ghat
where Gandhi was cremated - a simple
site and visited by large numbers. We kept running into large groups of friendly
school children who took great interest in looking at us and saying Hello! The
Government buildings built by the British are certainly impressive. Back to the
hotel where we saw an elephant and camel outside! The National Museum of India
has much to offer although feels rather run-down and neglected. The audio guide
was most helpful and loved the musical instruments, sculptures, miniature
paintings and beautiful wood carvings and textiles. Our driver suggested a stop
at the Indira Gandhi house and this proved most interesting as it covered the
whole family. Chilling to see the spot where she was assassinated. To the ATM
in Khan market – again a traffic jam. Had a short swim but the water was cold!.
Ate at Laseez Affaire again and had mushroom curry and delicious lamb. Also a
lime cooler drink. Met a couple from Singapore he Christian and South African,
she Buddhist and Chinese I think so had an interesting chat about interfaith.
Thursday 20 Dec. An early start leaving at 7.30 a.m. woke in
the night a couple of times. An amaing 4 hour drive past the birthplace of
Krishna. It took ages to get out of Delhi and the people, animals, traffic
indescribable. Had one stop for coffee. Trident hotel at Agra very pleasant and
we enjoyed a short swim in the cool water. Abdul was an excellent guide and
accompanied us all the time unlike the guy in Delhi. The driver explained the
commission system on the shops but we were firm about not going to one! The Taj
Mahal was absolutely stunning – a truly amazing building and the details and
proportions are wonderful. We then went on to the Red Fort and saw the Taj from
across the river. The Mughal emperor’s palace is most impressive and it was
good that we had seen the armour of Arenghzeb and the furnishings in the
National Museum. We returned for a quiet walk in the hotel gardens at sunset. Then we were off at 7 to Indiana which proved
to be very reasonable in price and in fact neither of us could finish our thali
– I had non-veg and Liz had the veg.
Friday 21 Dec Woke at 1.15 having dropped off around 9 and
Dennis rang at 5.30 a.m. Good breakfast in the stylish dining room and chatted
to a couple from England who spent the winter months travelling. Left at 8.30
and picked up Abdul at Fatehpur Sikri and again he was excellent explaining
about Akbar the Great and his 3 wives, Hindu, Christian and Muslim. Beautiful
carvings in red sandstone. The capital was abandoned because of water problems
despite a huge reservoir. We then continued the long 4 hour drive stopping for
delicious samosa and pakoura at a pleasant roadside restaurant where we chatted
to a tour party. Taksin suggested a short detour to Abhaneri to see the Harshat
Mata Hindu temple where we received the red dot on our foreheads and the
amazing Chand Baori a 10th
century step well water tank. And so
finally to Jaipur and the sprawling city a mass of traffic. The Golden Tulip is
an excellent hotel – the biggest room so far! At 7 to the Spice Court
restaurant where we had delicious mutton and chicken with rice. Watched dancer,
drummer and puppets while we waited for driver to appear! Wrote a comment about
a guest being sick on the floor and it was ignored by waiters and manager until
one of the waiters threw water at it and it eventually got cleaned up 20
minutes later. It also looked as though nobody attended to the sick lady! Very
unhygienic.
Saturday Dec 22 Woke at 1.30 a.m. having dropped off again
and woke early. At breakfast suddenly thought I was going to be sick so went
back to the room but it passed off and I stuck to bread! Jamal was our guide a
pleasant young man with 3 young children. We saw the Palace of the Winds and
drove to the Amber Fort where we queued amidst many hawkers to go on the
elephant ride up to the Fort. Actually not that unpleasant! The Fort itself is
impressive. Bought some photos taken of us on the elephant 3 for R300. Stopped
at a co-operative shop to see how the cloth hand printing is done and then how
the carpets are made. Liz had a go at knotting. We eventually bought a lovely
carpet which we had not expected to do and then went upstairs to see the
textiles and bought a lovely pashmina for Liz! An expensive morning. On to the
observatory which is amazing -huge
structures to calculate horoscopes. Into the Royal Palace where we saw the
costumes and how the miniature paintings are still done with very delicate
painting. Saw the audience halls and portraits of the maharajas and fine Hindu
paintings. Lastly the carriages and then off to a restaurant for light snack. I
stuck to naan and lime soda water. Then to a gem factory where we resolutely
were not going to buy any rubies! Back to the hotel for a swim – water cold but
refreshing in rooftop pool and had a rest. Found out details of Mass tomorrow.
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