Istanbul

Monday 5.50 a.m. caught express bus 68 to Waterloo and underground using oyster cards to Heathrow so that we arrived in good time for our British Airways flight. We boarded from the new section of terminal 1 and were served with a good hot breakfast. On arrival the coaches took us into the city where we were asked to change to the Hotel Richmond which was a good move as we had an executive room with a Bosphorus view and very comfortable. We went looking for the Atlas restaurant in Beyoglu but in the end went to Afacan which is self-service and we had aubergines and salad.
Tuesday to Borusan BMW headquarters and we rehearsed with Mark in the morning and lunch was provided. The orchestra the Istanbul Philharmonic are pros but the conductor Gurer Aykal has them say sorry if they make a mistake! There are 5 of his relations in the orchestra. He was charm itself throughout and at every break there was coffee, tea and delicious cakes! We picnicked in our room and had a rest!
Wednesday was a free morning so we determined to go to Asia. This involved a trip on the funicular to Tunel and through the underpass (lots of alarming gun shops) and a walk over the Galata bridge (many fishermen) to the ferry station. A 15 minute crossing to Uskudar and a walk around. We visited a large mosque and walked through the market admiring the fish and vegetables! Ferry back and retraced our steps to the hotel for a 1 p.m. set-off to rehearsal. The soloists were excellent and stayed in our hotel. A commanding bass Massimiliano Viapiano, a true mezzo Romina Boscolo, a good soprano Valentina Valente and an excellent young tenor Mathias Stier. The orchestra improved as well. Mark is good but seems not to have explained the text of the Requiem. In the evening we ate at the other hotel Yesahir Palace with Jackie, Eleanor and Edmund.
Thursday and we finally arrived at the enormous concert hall which seats 4000 for a morning rehearsal. We ate at Picnic and had delicious kebab meat with salad and baklava. Rested in the afternoon for the concert which was pretty well full. The audience are unused to Requiems and the conductor had stood out to perform the Dvorak. All went well. The tenors' Fac eas domine entries proved nerve wracking because of the way we were seated making it hard to hear anyone behind you! At the end of the concert all the soloists and conductor greeted each one of us as we left the stage - unprecedented! It was a competent performance with a couple of problem areas. A moving experience too!
Friday morning a taxi ride to Kariye Museum (the church of St Saviour in Chora) which has magnificent 14th century mosaics and frescoes. The Insight guide was most helpful. The Lonely planet guide less so and we ended up walking along a main road with lots of bridal wear shops. We visited the enormous Mosque of the Conqueror Fatih Camii. Got a taxi back from the main square and had large salads at Ada. British Airways flight back arriving at 8 p.m. and by underground, train and bus home by 9.50 p.m. after an excellent trip memorable for lots of cakes and weight gain!